Production of Worsted Woven Fabric with Local-National Merino Wool in Turkey and Its Transformation into Suit Jackets after Performance Tests: An Adventure from Sheep to Jacket

Rıza Atav

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5807-4542

Bürhan Buğdaycı

Yünsa Inc.

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9515-3477

Uğur Ergünay

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2955-4686

Pelin Gürkan Ünal

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8141-5627

Ayşe Şen

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9486-1992

Emel Özkan Ünal

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7460-4040

Gökmen Karagöz

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3977-7354

Raziye Işık

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2982-6562

M. İhsan Soysal

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9992-8102

Muhittin Özder

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4435-9886

Sezen Arat

Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2789-0635

Büşra Eroğlu

Yünsa Inc.

https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4109-4264

DOI: https://doi.org/10.56038/oprd.v5i1.600

Keywords: Karacabey (Turkish) Merino, wool, worsted fabric, finishing, comfort


Abstract

The aim of this study is to convert the fleeces obtained after 1 year of maintenance of the Karacabey (Turkish) Merino fleece-oriented starter flock of Turkey, which was established in Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University Faculty of Agriculture Education Research and Application Farm, into worsted yarn and then woven fabric for the first time in Turkey after wool washing. Thus, it is aimed to show that the same worsted men's suit woven fabrics normally produced with Australian merino wool can be produced with Turkish merino. The structural, mechanical, handle and comfort properties of the produced fabric after dyeing-finishing processes were compared with the fabric produced with Australian merino by taking the fabric produced with Australian merino as reference. In the performance tests conducted, it was determined that the fabric produced with local-national wool showed similar quality performance properties to the fabric produced with Australian merino and the first men's suit jacket production was achieved from this fabric obtained from our local wool.


References

Scobie, D.R., Grosvenor, A.J., Bray, A.R., Tandon, S.K., Meade, W.J., Cooper, A.M.B. (2015). A review of wool fibre variation across the body of sheep and the effects an wool processing. Small Ruminant Research, 133, 43–53. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.smallrumres.2015.10.025

Textile Exchange. (2020). Preferred Fiber & Materials 2020 Market Report.

TÜİK. (2021). Erişim Adresi: https://data.tuik.gov.tr/Kategori/GetKategori?p=Tarim-111. Erişim Tarihi: 19.06.2022.

Günaydın, G. (2009). Koyun yetiştiriciliğinin ekonomi politiği. Uludağ Üniversitesi Ziraat Fakültesi Dergisi, 23(2), 15-32.

Erdem, N. (1992). Today’s situation of sheep crossbreeding for obtaining fine wool in Turkey and the properties of new merino type wools. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2(4), 250-255.

Erdem, N. (1993). A Research about some important wool properties of Turkish merino raised in Karacabey state farm. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2, 81-84.

Atav, R., Buğdaycı, B (2022). Türkiye’de Kaliteli Yapağı Verimine Sahip Koyun Irkı Eldesinde Merinoslaştırma Faaliyetlerinin Geçmişi, Bugünü ve Geleceğine Genel Bakış ve Türk Merinosu (Karacabey Merinosu) Irkının Yapağı Özelliklerine İlişkin Önceki Çalışmalar, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 29: 127, 185- 197. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920222912708

Özkan Ünal, E., Soysal, M.İ., Atav, R., Gürkan Ünal, P., Özdil, F., Genç, S., ve Işık, R. (2022). Yerli koyun ırklarının yapağı kalitesinin morfolojik-genetik karakterizasyonu ve tekstil giysi üretiminde kullanım olanaklarının araştırılması. T.C. Gıda Tarım ve Hayvancılık Bakanlığı Araştırma Geliştirme Destek Programı, TAGEM/ 18/ AR-GE / 11.

Atav, R., Soysal, M.İ., Özder, M., Ünal, P.G., Arat, S., Özkan Ünal, E., ve Buğdaycı, B (2022). Türkiye'de Kaliteli Yapağı Verimine Sahip Karacabey Merinosu Başlangıç Sürüsü Oluşturulmasi ve Bu Koyunların Yünlerinden Katma Değeri Yüksek Kamgarn Dokuma Kumaş Üretimi Potansiyelinin Ortaya Koyulması, TÜBİTAK 1005 Ulusal Yeni Fikirler ve Ürünler Destek Programı, Proje Numarası: 120M125

Atav, R., Buğdaycı, B., Şen, A., Ergünay, U., Gürkan Ünal, P., Özkan Ünal, E., Karagöz, G., Işık, R., Soysal, M.İ., Özder, M., Arat, S., Eroğlu, B. (Kasım 2023) Creating A High-Quality Wool-Oriented Turkish Merino Herd and Investigation of Mechanical and Dyeability Properties of Fabrics Produced from Turkish Merino in Comparison with Australian Merino, Coloration Technology, 139(6), 689-702. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12680

TS EN ISO 12945-2 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting - Part 2: Modified Martindale method 2021.

TS 391 EN ISO 9237 Textiles-Determination of permeability of fabrics to air 1999.

BS 7209 Specification for water vapour permeable apparel fabrics 1990.

ISO 105-C06 Textiles test for colour fastness. Part C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. 2010.

ISO 105-X12 Textiles tests for color fastness. Part X12: Color fastness to rubbing. 2016.

ISO 105-E04 Textiles-Tests for color fastness, Part E04: Color fastness to perspiration. 2013.

ISO 105-B02 Textiles-Tests for color fastness, Part B02: Color fastness to artificial light. 2014.

Most read articles by the same author(s)